Clockwise from top left:: Charminar, Birla Mandir, Hussain Sagar, Golconda Fort, Skyline at Lanco Hills and Chowmahalla Palace.
|Nickname(s): City of Pearls|
|Districts||Hyderabad, Ranga Reddy and Medak|
|Founded by||Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah|
|• Body||GHMC, HMDA|
|• MP||Asaduddin Owaisi|
|• Mayor||Mohammad Majid Hussain|
|• Police commissioner||Anurag Sharma|
|• Metropolis||650 km2 (250 sq mi)|
|• Metro||7,100 km2 (2,700 sq mi)|
|• Density||18,480/km2 (47,900/sq mi)|
|• Metro rank||6th|
|Time zone||IST (UTC+5:30)|
|Pincode(s)||500 xxx, 501 xxx, 502 xxx, 508 xxx, 509 xxx|
|Area code(s)||+91–40, 8413, 8414, 8415, 8417, 8418, 8453, 8455|
|Official languages||Telugu and Urdu|
Hyderabad (i//) is the capital and largest city of the southern Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Occupying 650 square kilometres (250 sq mi), along the banks of the Musi River, it has a population of 6.8 million and a metropolitan population of 7.75 million, making it the fourth most populous city and sixth most populous urban agglomeration in India. At an average altitude of 542 metres (1,778 ft), much of Hyderabad is situated on hilly terrain around artificial lakes, including Hussain Sagar—predating the city's founding—north of the city centre.
Established in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, Hyderabad remained under the rule of the Qutb Shahi dynasty for nearly a century before the Mughals captured the region. In 1724, Mughal viceroy Asif Jah I declared his sovereignty and created his own dynasty, also known as the Nizams of Hyderabad. The Hyderabad State ultimately became a princely state during British rule, and remained so for 150 years, with the city serving as its capital. The city continued as capital of a new Hyderabad State after joining the Indian Union in 1948 and before attaining its current status as the focal point of Andhra Pradesh in 1956. Hyderabad is expected to be part of Telangana when the new state is carved out of Andhra Pradesh.
Relics of Qutb Shahi and Nizam rule remain visible today, with the Charminar—commissioned by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah himself—coming to symbolise Hyderabad. That legacy is also evident in the city's distinctive cuisine, which includes Hyderabadi biriyani and Hyderabadi haleem. The Qutb Shahis and Nizams established Hyderabad as a cultural hub, attracting men of letters from different parts of the world. Hyderabad emerged as the foremost centre of culture in India with the decline of the Mughal Empire in the mid-19th century, with artists migrating to the city from the rest of the Indian subcontinent. While Hyderabad is losing its cultural pre-eminence, it is today, due to the Telugu film industry, the country's second-largest producer of motion pictures.
Hyderabad was historically known as a pearl and diamond trading centre, and it continues to be known as the City of Pearls. Many of the city's traditional bazaars, including Laad Bazaar, Begum Bazaar and Sultan Bazaar, have remained open for centuries. However, industrialisation throughout the 20th century has also attracted major Indian manufacturing, research and financial institutions, including the Bharat Heavy Electricals Limited, National Geophysical Research Institute and the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology. Special economic zones dedicated to information technology have encouraged companies from across India and around the world to set up operations and the emergence of pharmaceutical and biotechnology industries in the 1990s led to the title of Genome Valley. With an output of US$74 billion, Hyderabad is the fifth-largest contributor to India's overall gross domestic product.
- 1 History
- 2 Geography
- 3 Administration
- 4 Demographics
- 5 Cityscape
- 6 Economy
- 7 Culture
- 8 Media
- 9 Education
- 10 Sports
- 11 Transport
- 12 See also
- 13 References
- 14 Further reading
- 15 External links
The name Hyderabad means "Hyder's abode" or "lion city", derived from the Persian/Urdu words "haydar" or "hyder" (lion) and "ābād" (city or abode).1 According to John Everett-Heath, the author of Oxford Concise Dictionary of World Place Names, Hyderabad was named to honour the Caliph Ali Ibn Abi Talib, who was also known as Hyder because of his lion-like valour in battles.1 One popular theory suggests that Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the founder of the city, named it "Bhaganagar" or "Bhāgnagar" after Bhagmati, a local nautch (dancing) girl with whom he had fallen in love.2 She converted to Islam and adopted the title Hyder Mahal. The city was renamed Hyderabad in her honour.2 According to another source, the city was named after Haidar, the son of Quli Qutb Shah.3 Andrew Petersen, a scholar of Islamic architecture, says the city was originally called Baghnagar (city of gardens).4
Archaeologists excavating near the city have unearthed Iron Age sites that may date from 500 BCE.5 The region comprising modern Hyderabad and its surroundings was known as Golkonda ("shepherd's hill"),6 and was ruled by the Chalukya dynasty from 624 CE to 1075 CE.7 Following the dissolution of the Chalukya empire into four parts in the 11th century, Golkonda came under the control of the Kakatiya dynasty (1158–1310), whose seat of power was at Warangal, 148 km (92 mi) northeast of modern Hyderabad.8
The Kakatiya dynasty was later reduced to a vassal of the Khilji dynasty (1310–1321) after its defeat by Sultan Alauddin Khilji of the Delhi Sultanate. This lasted until 1321, when the Kakatiya dynasty was annexed by Malik Kafur, Allaudin Khilji's general.9 During this period, Alauddin Khilji took the Koh-i-Noor diamond, which is said to have been mined from the Kollur Mines in Golkonda,10 to Delhi. Muhammad bin Tughluq succeeded to the Delhi sultanate in 1325, bringing Warangal under the rule of the Tughlaq dynasty until 1347 when Ala-ud-Din Bahman Shah, a governor under bin Tughluq, rebelled against the sultanate and established the Bahmani Sultanate in the Deccan Plateau, with Gulbarga, 200 km (124 mi) west of Hyderabad, as its capital. The Bahmani kings ruled the region until 1518 and were the first independent Muslim rulers of the Deccan.8
Sultan Quli, a governor of Golkonda, revolted against the Bahmani Sultanate and established the Qutb Shahi dynasty in 1518,8 he rebuilt the mud-fort of Golconda and named the city as "Muhammad nagar".1112 The fifth sultan, Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, established Hyderabad on the banks of the Musi River in 1591,13 to avoid the water shortages experienced at Golkonda.14 During his rule, he had the Charminar and Mecca Masjid built in the city.15 On 21 September 1687, the Golkonda Sultanate came under the rule of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb after a year-long siege of the Golkonda fort.1617 The annexed area was renamed Deccan Suba (Deccan province) and the capital was moved from Golkonda to Aurangabad, about 550 km (342 mi) northwest of Hyderabad.1618
In 1713 Farrukhsiyar, the later Mughal emperor, appointed Asif Jah I to be Viceroy of the Deccan, with the title Nizam-ul-Mulk (Administrator of the Realm).19 In 1724, Asif Jah I defeated Mubariz Khan to establish autonomy over the Deccan Suba, starting what came to be known as the Asif Jahi dynasty, and named the region Hyderabad Deccan. Subsequent rulers retained the title Nizam ul-Mulk and were referred to as Asif Jahi Nizams, or Nizams of Hyderabad.1618 The death of Asif Jah I in 1748 resulted in a period of political unrest as his sons, backed by opportunistic neighbouring states and colonial foreign forces, contended for the throne. The accession of Asif Jah II, who reigned from 1762 to 1803, to the throne ended the instability. In 1768 he signed the treaty of Masulipatnam, surrendering the coastal region to the East India Company in return for a fixed annual rent.20
In 1769 Hyderabad city became the formal capital of the Nizams.1618 In response to regular threats from Hyder Ali, Dalwai of Mysore, Baji Rao I, Peshwa of the Maratha Empire, and Basalath Jung (Asif Jah II's elder brother, who was supported by the Marquis de Bussy-Castelnau), the Nizam signed a subsidiary alliance with the East India Company in 1798, allowing the British Indian Army to occupy Bolarum (modern Secunderabad) to protect the state's borders, for which the Nizams paid an annual maintenance to the British.20 Until 1874 there were no modern industries in Hyderabad. With the introduction of railways in the 1880s, four factories were built to the south and east of Hussain Sagar Lake,21 and during the early 20th century, Hyderabad was transformed into a modern city with the establishment of transport services, underground drainage, running water, electricity, Begumpet Airport, telecommunications, universities and industries. The Nizams ruled the state from Hyderabad until 17 September 1948, a year after India's independence from Britain.1618
After India gained independence, the Nizam declared his intention to remain independent rather than become part of the Indian Union.20 The Hyderabad State Congress, with the support of the Indian National Congress and the Communist Party of India, began agitating against Nizam VII in 1948. On 17 September 1948, the Indian Army took control of Hyderabad State after an invasion codenamed Operation Polo. With the defeat of his forces, Nizam VII capitulated to the Indian Union by signing the Instrument of Accession, which made him the Rajpramukh (Princely Governor) of the state until 31 October 1956.1822 Between 1946 and 1951, the Communist Party of India fomented the Telangana uprising against the feudal lords of the Telangana region and later against the princely state of Hyderabad.23 The Constitution of India, which became effective on 26 January 1950, made Hyderabad State one of the part B states of India, with Hyderabad City continuing to be the capital.24 In his 1955 report Thoughts on Linguistic States, B. R. Ambedkar, then chairman of the Drafting Committee of the Indian Constitution, proposed designating the city of Hyderabad as the second capital of India because of its amenities and strategic central location.25 Since 1956, the Rashtrapati Nilayam in Hyderabad has been the second official residence and business office of the President of India.26
On 1 November 1956 the states of India were reorganised by language. Hyderabad state was split into three parts, and they were merged with neighboring states to form the modern states of Maharashtra, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. The nine Telugu- and Urdu-speaking districts of Hyderabad state that make up the Telangana region were merged with the Telugu-speaking Andhra State to create Andhra Pradesh,272829 with Hyderabad as its capital. Several protests, known collectively as the Telangana movement, attempted to invalidate the merger and demanded the creation of a new Telangana state. Major actions took place in 1969 and 1972, and a third began in 2010.30 The city has suffered several explosions: one at Dilsukhnagar in 2002 claimed two lives;31 terrorist groups detonated a series of bombs in the city in May and August 2007, causing communal tension and riots;32 and two bombs were exploded in February 2013.33 On 30 July 2013 the United Progressive Alliance (UPA) government of India declared that part of Andhra Pradesh would be split off to form the new Telangana state, and that Hyderabad city would be part of Telangana but it will first serve as the shared capital of both the states for the ten years. On 3 October 2013 the Union Cabinet approved the proposed bifurcation,34 and by 20 February 2014, both houses of Parliament passed the Telangana Bill, which needs the approval from the President and to be published in the Gazette before the state becomes a legal entity.35
Situated in the north-western part of Andhra Pradesh in southeastern India, Hyderabad is 1,566 kilometres (973 mi) south of Delhi, 699 kilometres (434 mi) southeast of Mumbai, and 570 kilometres (350 mi) north of Bangalore by road.37 It lies on the banks of the Musi River, in the northern part of the Deccan Plateau.3839 Greater Hyderabad covers 650 km2 (250 sq mi), making it one of the largest metropolitan areas in India.38 With an average altitude of 542 metres (1,778 ft), Hyderabad lies on predominantly sloping terrain of grey and pink granite, dotted with small hills, the highest being Banjara Hills at 672 metres (2,205 ft).3940 The city has numerous lakes referred to as sagar, meaning "sea". Examples of these lakes include Hussain Sagar, built in 1562 near the city centre, Osman Sagar and Himayat Sagar, which are artificial lakes created by dams on the Musi.3941 As of 1996, the city had 140 lakes and 834 water tanks (ponds).42
Hyderabad has a tropical wet and dry climate (Köppen Aw) bordering on a hot semi-arid climate (Köppen BSh).43 The annual mean temperature is 26 °C (78.8 °F); monthly mean temperatures are 21–32 °C (70–90 °F).44 Summers (March–June) are hot and humid, with average highs in the mid 30s Celsius;45 maximum temperatures often exceed 40 °C (104 °F) between April and June.44 Winter lasts for only about 2 1⁄2 months, during which the lowest temperature occasionally dips to 10 °C (50 °F) in December and January.44 May is the hottest month, when daily temperatures range from 26 to 38.8 °C (102 °F) (79–102 °F); January, the coldest, has temperatures varying from 14.7 to 28.6 °C (83 °F) (58–83 °F).45 Temperatures in the evenings and mornings are generally cooler because of the city's moderate elevation.
Heavy rain from the south-west summer monsoon falls between June and September,46 supplying Hyderabad with most of its annual rainfall of 812.5 mm (32 in).45 The highest total monthly rainfall, 181.5 mm (7 in), occurs in September.45 The heaviest rainfall recorded in a 24-hour period was 241 mm (9 in) on 24 August 2000. The highest temperature ever recorded was 45.5 °C (114 °F) on 2 June 1966, and the lowest was 6.1 °C (43 °F) on 8 January 1946.47 The city receives 2,731 hours of sunshine per year; maximum daily sunlight exposure occurs in February.4648
|Climate data for Hyderabad|
|Record high °C (°F)||33.4
|Average high °C (°F)||28.6
|Daily mean °C (°F)||22.2
|Average low °C (°F)||14.7
|Record low °C (°F)||6.1
|Rainfall mm (inches)||3.2
|Avg. rainy days||.3||.4||.9||1.8||2.7||7.6||10.6||10.1||8.9||5.7||1.6||.4||51.0|
|Mean monthly sunshine hours||279.0||271.2||263.5||273.0||282.1||180.0||142.6||136.4||168.0||226.3||246.0||263.5||2,731.6|
|Source #1: India Meteorological Department (1951–1980),49 NOAA (extremes, mean, humidity, 1971–1990)50|
|Source #2: Hong Kong Observatory (sun only, 1971–1990)51 Hyderabad, IMD 52|
Hyderabad's lakes and the sloping terrain of its low-lying hills provide habitat for an assortment of plant, bird, reptile and other animal species. The forest region in and around the city encompasses areas of ecological and biological importance, which are preserved in the form of national parks, zoos, mini-zoos and a wildlife sanctuary. Nehru Zoological Park, the city's one large zoo, is the first in India to have a lion and tiger safari park. Hyderabad has three national parks (Mrugavani National Park, Mahavir Harina Vanasthali National Park and Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park), and the Manjira Wildlife Sanctuary is about 50 km (31 mi) from the city. Hyderabad's other environmental reserves are: Kotla Vijayabhaskara Reddy Botanical Gardens, Shamirpet Lake, Hussain Sagar Lake, Fox Sagar Lake, Mir Alam Tank and Patancheru Lake, which is home to regional birds and attracts seasonal migratory birds from different parts of the world. Organisations engaged in environmental and wildlife preservation include the Indian Council of Forestry Research and Education, the International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics (ICRISAT), the Andhra Pradesh Forest Department, Animal Welfare Board of India, The Blue cross of Hyderabad and the University of Hyderabad.53
The Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation (GHMC) oversees the civic infrastructure of the city's 18 "circles", which together encompass 150 municipal wards. Each ward is represented by a corporator, elected by popular vote. The corporators elect the Mayor, who is the titular head of GHMC; executive powers rest with the Municipal Commissioner, appointed by the Government of Andhra Pradesh. The GHMC carries out the city's infrastructural work such as building and maintenance of roads and drains, town planning including construction regulation, maintenance of municipal markets and parks, solid waste management, the issuing of birth and death certificates, the issuing of trade licences, collection of property tax, and community welfare services such as mother and child healthcare service, pre-school education, and non-formal education.54 The GHMC was formed in April 2007 by merging the Municipal Corporation of Hyderabad (MCH) with 12 municipalities of the Hyderabad, Ranga Reddy and Medak districts covering a total area of 650 km2 (250 sq mi).5556:3 In the 2009 municipal election, an alliance of the Indian National Congress and Majlis Ittehadul Muslimeen formed the majority.57 The Secunderabad Cantonment Board is a civic administration agency overseeing an area of 40.1 km2 (15.5 sq mi),58:93 where there are several military camps.59:260 The Osmania University campus is administered independently by the university authority.58:93
Hyderabad's administrative agencies have varied jurisdictions; in ascending order of size is the Hyderabad Police area, Hyderabad district, the GHMC area ("Hyderabad city") and the area under the Hyderabad Metropolitan Development Authority (HMDA). The HMDA is an apolitical urban planning agency that encompasses the GHMC and its suburbs, extending to 54 mandals in five districts encompassing the city. It coordinates the development activities of GHMC and suburban municipalities and manages the administration of the Hyderabad Metropolitan Water Supply and Sewerage Board (HMWSSB), the Andhra Pradesh Transmission Corporation, the Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC) and other bodies.61
The jurisdiction of the Hyderabad Police Commissionerate is divided into five police zones, each headed by a deputy commissioner.62 The Hyderabad Traffic Police is headed by a deputy commissioner who reports to the commissioner.63 In 2012, the Andhra Pradesh Government announced its intention to merge the Hyderabad and Cyberabad Police Commissionerates into a single Greater Hyderabad Police Commissionerate.64
As the seat of the Government of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad is home to the Andhra Pradesh Legislature, the state secretariat and the Andhra Pradesh High Court, as well as to various local government agencies. The Lower City Civil Court and the Metropolitan Criminal Court are under the jurisdiction of the High Court.6566:1 The GHMC area contains 24 State Legislative Assembly constituencies, which come under five constituencies of the Lok Sabha (the lower house of the Parliament of India).55
The HMWSSB regulates rainwater harvesting, sewerage services and water supply,61 which is sourced from several dams located in the suburbs.67 In 2005, the HMWSSB started operating a 150-kilometre-long (93 mi) water supply pipeline from Nagarjuna Sagar Dam to meet increasing demands.67 The Andhra Pradesh Central Power Distribution Company manages electricity supply.61 Firefighting services operate from the 13 fire stations, as of March 2012, of the Andhra Pradesh Fire Services department.68 The state-owned Indian Postal Service has five head post offices and many sub-post offices in Hyderabad. The state postal service is complemented by private courier services.39
Hyderabad produces around 4,500 tonnes of solid waste daily, which is transported from collection units in Imlibun, Yousufguda and Lower Tank Bund to the dumpsite in Jawaharnagar.69 Disposal is managed by the Integrated Solid Waste Management project which was started by the GHMC in 2010.70 Rapid urbanisation and increased economic activity has also led to increased industrial waste, air, noise and water pollution, which is regulated by the Andhra Pradesh Pollution Control Board (APPCB).71 The contribution of different sources to air pollution in 2006 was: 20–50% from vehicles, 40–70% from a combination of vehicle discharge and road dust, 10–30% from industrial discharges and 3–10% from the burning of household rubbish.72 Deaths resulting from atmospheric particulate matter are estimated at 1,700–3,000 each year.73 Ground water around Hyderabad, which has a hardness of up to 1000 ppm, around three times higher than is desirable,74 is the main source of drinking water but the increasing population and consequent increase in demand has led to a decline in not only ground water but also dam levels.6775 This shortage is further exacerbated by inadequately treated effluent discharged from industrial treatment plants polluting the water sources of the city.76
The Andhra Pradesh Vaidya Vidhana Parishad is the state government department responsible for administering healthcare in Hyderabad.77 As of 2010–11, the city had 50 government hospitals,78 300 private and charity hospitals and 194 nursing homes providing around 12,000 hospital beds, fewer than half the required 25,000;7980 for every 10,000 people in the city, there are 17.6 hospital beds,81 9 specialist doctors, 14 nurses and 6 physicians.80 The city also has about 4,000 individual clinics82 and 500 medical diagnostic centres,79 which are preferred by many residents; an estimated 28% of the population use government facilities, because of their distance, poor quality of care and long waiting times,83:60–61 despite the high proportion of the city's residents being covered by government health insurance, 24% according to a National Family Health Survey in 2005.83:41 As of 2012, many new private hospitals of various sizes have opened or are being built.82 Hyderabad also has outpatient and inpatient facilities that use Unani, homeopathic and Ayurvedic treatments.84
In the 2005 National Family Health Survey, it was reported that the city's total fertility rate is 1.8,83:47 which is below the replacement rate. Only 61% of children had been provided with all basic vaccines (BCG, measles and full courses of polio and DPT), fewer than in all other surveyed cities except Meerut.83:98 The infant mortality rate was 35 per 1,000 live births, and the mortality rate for children under five was 41 per 1,000 live births.83:97 The survey also reported that a third of women and a quarter of men are overweight or obese, 49% of children below 5 years are anaemic, and up to 20% of children are underweight,83:44, 55–56 while more than 2% of women and 3% of men suffer from diabetes in Hyderabad.83:57
When the GHMC was created in 2007, the area occupied by the municipality increased from 175 km2 (68 sq mi) to 650 km2 (250 sq mi).38 Consequently, the population increased by 87%, from 3,637,483 in the 2001 census to 6,809,970 in the 2011 census, 24% of which are migrants from elsewhere in India,59:2 making Hyderabad the nation's fourth most populous city.8788 As of 2011, the population density is 18,480 /km2 (47,900 /sq mi).89 At the same 2011 Census, the Hyderabad Urban Agglomeration had a population of 7,749,334, making it the sixth most populous urban agglomeration in the country.88 The population of the Hyderabad urban agglomeration has since been estimated by electoral officials to be 9.1 million as of early 2013 but is expected to exceed 10 million by the end of the year.90 There are 3,500,802 male and 3,309,168 female citizens—a sex ratio of 945 females per 1000 males,91 higher than the national average of 926 per 1000.92 Among children aged 0–6 years, 373,794 are boys and 352,022 are girls—a ratio of 942 per 1000.91 Literacy stands at 82.96% (male 85.96%; female 79.79%), higher than the national average of 74.04%.93 The socio-economic strata consist of 20% upper class, 50% middle class and 30% working class.94
Referred to as "Hyderabadi", residents of Hyderabad are predominantly Telugu and Urdu speaking people, with a minority Tamil, Marathi, Kannada (including Nawayathi), Marwari, Bengali, Malayali, Oriya, Gujarati, Punjabi and Uttar Pradeshi communities. Among the communities of foreigners, Yemeni Arabs form the majority, although African Arabs, Armenians, Abyssinians, Iranians, Pathans and Turkish people are also present. The foreign population declined after Hyderabad State became part of the Indian Union, as it lost the patronage of the Nizams.95
Telugu is the official language of Hyderabad and Urdu is its second language.96 The Telugu dialect spoken in Hyderabad is called Telangana, and the Urdu spoken is called Dakhani.97:1869–7098 English is also used.99 A significant minority speak other languages, including Hindi, Marathi, Oriya, Tamil, Bengali and Kannada.95
Hindus form the majority of Hyderabad's population. Muslims are present throughout the city and predominate in and around the Old City. There are also Christian, Sikh, Jain, Buddhist and Parsi communities, and iconic temples, mosques and churches can be seen.100 According to the 2001 census, Hyderabad district's religious make-up was: Hindus (55.41%), Muslims (41.17%), Christians (2.43%), Jains (0.43%), Sikhs (0.29%) and Buddhists (0.02%); 0.23% did not state any religion.101
13% of the population live below the poverty line.102 According to a 2012 report submitted by GHMC to the World Bank, Hyderabad has 1,476 slums with a total population of 1.7 million, of whom 66% live in 985 slums in the "core" of the city (the part that formed Hyderabad before the April 2007 expansion) and the remaining 34% live in 491 suburban tenements.103 About 22% of the slum-dwelling households had migrated from different parts of India in the last decade of the 20th century, and 63% claimed to have lived in the slums for more than 10 years.59:55 Overall literacy in the slums is 60–80% and female literacy is 52–73%. A third of the slums have basic service connections, and the remainder depend on general public services provided by the government. There are 405 government schools, 267 government aided schools, 175 private schools and 528 community halls in the slum areas.104:70 According to a 2008 survey by the Centre for Good Governance, 87.6% of the slum-dwelling households are nuclear families, 18% are very poor, with an income up to 20000 (US$320) per annum, 73% live below the poverty line (a standard poverty line recognised by the Andhra Pradesh Government is 24000 (US$380) per annum), 27% of the chief wage earners (CWE) are casual labour and 38% of the CWE are illiterate. About 3.72% of the slum children aged 5–14 do not go to school and 3.17% work as child labour, of whom 64% are boys and 36% are girls. The largest employers of child labour are street shops and construction sites. Among the working children, 35% are engaged in hazardous jobs.59:59
The historic city established by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah on the southern side of the Musi River forms the "Old City", while the "New City" encompasses the urbanised area on the northern banks. The two are connected by many bridges across the river, the oldest of which is Purana Pul (old bridge).105 Hyderabad is twinned with neighbouring Secunderabad, from which it is connected by Hussain Sagar.106
In the southern part of central Hyderabad are many historical and touristic sites, such as the Charminar, the Mecca Masjid, the Salar Jung Museum, the Nizam's museum, the Falaknuma Palace, and the traditional retail corridor comprising Laad Bazaar, Pearls Market and Madina circle. North of the river are hospitals, colleges, major railway stations and business areas such as Begum Bazaar, Koti, Abids, Sultan Bazaar and Moazzam Jahi Market, along with administrative and recreational establishments such as the Reserve Bank of India, the Andhra Pradesh Secretariat, the Hyderabad Mint, the Andhra Pradesh Legislature, the Public Garden, the Nizam Club, the Ravindra Bharathi, the state museum, the Birla Temple and the Birla Planetarium.106107108
North of central Hyderabad lie Hussain Sagar, Tank Bund Road, Rani Gunj and the Secunderabad Railway Station.106 Most of the city's parks and recreation centres, such as Sanjeevaiah Park, Indira Park, Lumbini Park, NTR Gardens, the Buddha statue and Tankbund Park are located here.36 In the northwest part of the city there are upscale residential areas such as Banjara Hills, Jubilee Hills, Begumpet, Khairatabad and Miyapur.109 The northern end contains industrial areas such as Sanathnagar, Moosapet, Balanagar, Pathan Cheru and Chanda Nagar. The northeast end is dotted with residential colonies.106107108 In the eastern part of the city lie many defence research centres and Ramoji Film City. The "Cyberabad" area in the southwest and west parts of the city has grown rapidly since the 1990s. It is home to information technology and bio-pharmaceutical companies and to landmarks such as Hyderabad Airport, Osman Sagar, Himayath Sagar and Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park.110111
Heritage buildings constructed during Qutb shahi and Nizam eras showcase Indo-Islamic architecture influenced by Medieval, Mughal and European styles.4112 After the 1908 flooding of the Musi River, the city was expanded and civic monuments constructed, particularly during the rule of Mir Osman Ali Khan (the VIIth Nizam), whose patronage of architecture led to him being referred to as the maker of modern Hyderabad.113114 In 2012, the government of India declared Hyderabad the first "Best heritage city of India".115
Qutb Shahi architecture of the 16th and early 17th centuries followed classical Persian architecture featuring domes and colossal arches,116 The oldest surviving Qutb Shahi structure in Hyderabad is the ruins of Golconda fort built in 16th century. The Charminar, Mecca Masjid, Charkaman and Qutb Shahi Tombs are other existing structures of this period. Among these the Charminar has become an icon of the city; located in the centre of old Hyderabad, it is a square structure with sides 20 metres (66 ft) long and four grand arches each facing a road. At each corner stands a 56 metres (184 ft) minaret. Most of the historical Bazaars that still exist were constructed on the street north of Charminar towards Golconda fort. The Charminar, Qutb Shahi tombs and Golconda fort are considered to be monuments of national importance in India; in 2010 the Indian government proposed that the sites be listed for UNESCO World Heritage status.113117118:11–18119
Among the oldest surviving examples of Nizam architecture in Hyderabad is the Chowmahalla Palace, which was the seat of royal power. It showcases a diverse array of architectural styles, from the Baroque Harem to its Neoclassical royal court. The other palaces built by the Nizams include Falaknuma Palace (inspired by Andrea Palladio villas), Purani Haveli, King Kothi and Bella Vista Palace all of which were built at the peak of the Nizam rule in the 19th century. During Mir Osman Ali Khan's rule, European, styles along with Indo-Islamic, became prominent. These styles are reflected in the Falaknuma Palace and many civic monuments such as the Hyderabad High Court, Osmania Hospital, Osmania University, Hyderabad and Kachiguda railway stations, State Central Library, City College, Andhra Pradesh Legislature, State Archaeology Museum and Jubilee Hall.113116120121 Other landmarks of note are the Paigah Palace, Asman Garh Palace, Basheer Bagh Palace, Errum Manzil and Spanish Mosque, all constructed by the Paigah Family.118:16–17122123
Hyderabad is the largest contributor to the gross domestic product (GDP), tax and other revenues, of Andhra Pradesh, and the sixth largest deposit centre and fourth largest credit centre nationwide, as ranked by the Reserve Bank of India (RBI) in June 2012.124 Its US$74 billion GDP makes it the fifth-largest contributor city to India's overall GDP in 2011–12.125 Its per capita annual income in 2011 was 44300 (US$710).126 As of 2006, the largest employers in the city are the governments of Andhra Pradesh (113,098 employees) and of India (85,155).127 According to a government survey in 2005, 77% of males and 19% of females in the city were employed.128 The service industry remains dominant in the city, and 90% of the employed workforce is engaged in this sector.129
Hyderabad's role in the pearl trade has given it the name, "City of Pearls" and up until the 18th century, the city was also the only global trading centre for large diamonds.17130131 Industrialisation began under the Nizams in the late 19th century, helped by railway expansion that connected the city with major ports.132133 From the 1950s to the 1970s, Indian enterprises, such as Bharat Heavy Electricals Limited (BHEL), Nuclear Fuel Complex (NFC), National Mineral Development Corporation (NMDC), Bharat Electronics (BEL), Electronics Corporation of India Limited (ECIL), Defence Research and Development Organisation (DRDO), Hindustan Aeronautics Limited (HAL), Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology (CCMB), Centre for DNA Fingerprinting and Diagnostics (CDFD), Andhra Bank (AB) and State Bank of Hyderabad (SBH)107 were established in the city.134 The city is home to the Hyderabad Securities formerly known as Hyderabad Stock Exchange (HSE),135 and houses the regional office of Securities and Exchange Board of India (SEBI).136 By the end of 2014, the upcoming Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE) facility in Hyderabad will provide operations and transactions services to BSE-Mumbai.137 The growth of the financial services sector has helped Hyderabad evolve from a traditional manufacturing city to a cosmopolitan industrial service centre.107 Since the 1990s, the growth of information technology (IT), IT-enabled services (ITES), insurance and financial institutions has expanded the service sector, and these primary economic activities have boosted the ancillary sectors of trade and commerce, transport, storage, communication, real estate and retail.133
Hyderabad's commercial markets are divided into four sectors: central business districts,138 sub-central business centres, neighbourhood business centres and local business centres.139 Many traditional and historical bazaars are located throughout the city, Laad Bazaar being the prominent among all is popular for selling a variety of traditional and cultural antique wares, along with gems and pearls stores.140141
The establishment of the Indian Drugs and Pharmaceuticals Limited (IDPL), a public sector undertaking, in 1961 was followed over the decades by many national and global companies opening manufacturing and research facilities in the city,142 As of 2010, the city manufactured total of India's one third of bulk drugs and 16% of biotechnology products,143144 contributing to its reputation as "India's pharmaceutical capital" and the "Genome Valley of India".145 Hyderabad is a global centre of information technology, for which it is known as Cyberabad (Cyber City).110111 As of 2013, it contributes 15% of India's and 98% of Adhra Pradesh's exports in IT and ITES sectors146 and 22% of the NASSCOM's total membership is from the city.126 The development of HITEC City, a township with extensive technological infrastructure, prompted multinational companies to establish facilities in Hyderabad.110 The city is home to more than 1300 IT and ITES firms, including global conglomerates such as Microsoft (operating its largest R&D campus outside the US), Google, IBM, Yahoo!, Dell, Facebook,59:3147 and major Indian firms including Tech Mahindra, Infosys, Tata Consultancy Services (TCS), Genpact and Wipro.59:3 In 2009 the World Bank Group ranked the city as the second best Indian city for doing business.148 The city and its suburbs contain the highest number of special economic zones of any Indian city.126
Like the rest of India, Hyderabad has a large informal economy that employs 30% of the labour force.104:71 According to a survey published in 2007, it had 40–50,000 street vendors, and their numbers were increasing.149:9 Among the street vendors, 84% are male and 16% female,150:12 and four fifths are "stationary vendors" operating from a fixed pitch, often with their own stall.150:15–16 Most are financed through personal savings; only 8% borrow from moneylenders.150:19 Vendor earnings vary from 50 (80¢ US) to 800 (US$13) per day.149:25 Other unorganised economic sectors include dairy, poultry farming, brick manufacturing, casual labour and domestic help. Those involved in the informal economy constitute a major portion of urban poor.104:71
Hyderabad emerged as the foremost centre of culture in India with the decline of the Mughal Empire in Delhi in 1857 AD. The migration of performing artists to the city particularly from the north and west of the Indian sub continent, under the patronage of the Nizam, enriched the cultural milieu.151152 This migration resulted in a mingling of North and South Indian languages, cultures and religions, which has since led to a co-existence of Hindu and Muslim traditions, for which the city has become noted.153154:viii A further consequence of this north-south mix is that both Telugu and Urdu are official languages of Andhra Pradesh.155 The mixing of religions has also resulted in many festivals being celebrated in Hyderabad such as the Ganesh Chaturthi, Diwali and Bonalu of Hindu tradition and the important Muslim holidays of Eid ul-Fitr and Eid al-Adha.156
Traditional Hyderabadi garb also reveals a mix of Muslim and South Asian influences with men wearing Sherwani and Kurta–Paijama and women wearing Khara Dupatta and Salwar kameez.157158159 Muslim women also commonly wear burqas and hijabs in public.160 In addition to the traditional Indian and Muslim garments, increasing exposure to western cultures has led to a rise in the wearing of western style clothing among youths.161
In the past, Hyderabad had received royal patronage for arts, literature and architecture from Qutb Shahi rulers and Nizams attracting artists and men of letters from different parts of the world. The resulting multi-ethnic settlements popularised cultural events such as mushairas (poetic symposia).162 The Qutb Shahi dynasty particularly encouraged the growth of Deccani Urdu literature leading to works such as the Deccani Masnavi and Diwan poetry, which are among the earliest available manuscripts in Urdu.163 Lazzat Un Nisa a book compiled in the 15th century at Qutb Shahi courts, contains erotic paintings with diagrams for secret medicines and stimulants in the eastern form of ancient sexual acts.164 The reign of the Nizams saw many literary reforms and the introduction of Urdu as a language of court, administration and education.165 In 1824, a collection of Urdu Ghazal poetry, named Gulzar-e-Mahlaqa, authored by Mah Laqa Bai—the first female Urdu poet to produce a Diwan—was published in Hyderabad.166
Hyderabad has continued with these traditions in its annual Hyderabad Literary Festival, held since 2010, showcasing the city's literary and cultural creativity.167 Organisations engaged in the advancement of literature include the Sahitya Akademi, the Urdu Academy, the Telugu Academy, the National Council for Promotion of Urdu Language, the Comparative Literature Association of India, and the Andhra Saraswata Parishad. Literary development is further aided by state institutions such as the State Central Library, the largest public library in the state which was established in 1891,168 and other major libraries including the Sri Krishna Devaraya Andhra Bhasha Nilayam, the British Library and the Sundarayya Vignana Kendram.169
South Indian music and dances such as the Kuchipudi and Kathakali styles are popular in the Deccan region. As a result of their culture policies, North Indian music and dance gained popularity during the rule of the Mughals and Nizams,170 and it was also during their reign that it became a tradition among the nobility to associate themselves with Tawaif (courtesans). These courtesans were revered as the epitome of etiquette and culture, and were appointed to teach singing, poetry and classical dance to many children of the aristocracy.171 This gave rise to certain styles of court music, dance and poetry. Besides western and Indian popular music genres such as filmi music, the residents of Hyderabad play city-based marfa music, especially at weddings, festivals and other celebratory events.172 The state government organises the Golconda Music and Dance Festival, the Taramati Music Festival and the Premavathi Dance Festival to further encourage the development of music.173
Although the city is not particularly noted for theatre and drama,174 the state government promotes theatre with multiple programmes and festivals175176 in such venues as the Ravindra Bharati, Shilpakala Vedika and Lalithakala Thoranam. Although not a purely music oriented event, Numaish, a popular annual exhibition of local and national consumer products, does feature some musical performances.177 The city is home to the Telugu film industry, popularly known as Tollywood178 and as of 2012, produces the second largest number of films in India with the largest number being produced by Bollywood.179 Films in the local Hyderabadi dialect are also produced and have been gaining popularity since 2005.180 The city has also hosted international film festivals such as the International Children's Film Festival and the Hyderabad International Film Festival.181 In 2005, Guinness World Records declared Ramoji Film City to be the world's largest film studio.182
The region is well known for its Golconda and Hyderabad painting styles which are branches of Deccani painting.183 Developed during the 16th century, the Golconda style is a native style blending foreign techniques and bears some similarity to the Vijayanagara paintings of neighbouring Mysore. A significant use of luminous gold and white colours is generally found in the Golconda style.184 The Hyderabad style originated in the 17th century under the Nizams. Highly influenced by Mughal painting, this style makes use of bright colours and mostly depicts regional landscape, culture, costumes and jewellery.183
Although not a centre for handicrafts itself, the patronage of the arts by the Mughals and Nizams attracted artisans from the region to Hyderabad. One such craft is Bidri ware, a metalwork handicraft from neighbouring Karnataka, which was popularised during the 18th century and has since been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag under the auspices of the WTO act.113185 Another example of a handicraft drawn to Hyderabad is Kalamkari, a hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile that comes from other cities in Andhra Pradesh. This craft is distinguished in having both a Hindu style, known as Srikalahasti and entirely done by hand, and an Islamic style, known as Machilipatnam that uses both hand and block techniques.186 Examples of Hyderabad's arts and crafts are housed in various museums including the Salar Jung Museum (housing "one of the largest one-man-collections in the world"187), the AP State Archaeology Museum, the Nizam Museum, the City Museum and the Birla Science Museum.188
Hyderabadi cuisine comprises a broad repertoire of rice, wheat and meat dishes and the skilled use of various spices.189 Hyderabadi biryani and Hyderabadi haleem, with their blend of Mughlai and Arab cuisines,190 have become iconic dishes of India.191 Hyderabadi cuisine is highly influenced by Mughlai and to some extent by French,192 Arabic, Turkish, Iranian and native Telugu and Marathwada cuisines.159190 Other popular native dishes include nihari, chakna, baghara baingan and the desserts qubani ka meetha, double ka meetha and kaddu ki kheer (a sweet porridge made with sweet gourd).159193
One of Hyderabad's earliest newspapers, The Deccan Times, was established in the 1780s.194 In modern times, the major Telugu dailies published in Hyderabad are Eenadu, Andhra Jyothy, Sakshi and Namaste Telangana, while the major English papers are The Times of India, The Hindu and The Deccan Chronicle,195 and the major Urdu papers include The Siasat Daily, The Munsif Daily and Etemaad. Many coffee table magazines, professional magazines and research journals are also regularly published.196197 The Secunderabad Cantonment Board established the first radio station in Hyderabad State around 1919. Deccan Radio was the first radio public broadcast station in the city starting on 3 February 1935,198 with FM broadcasting beginning in 2000.199 The available channels in Hyderabad include All India Radio, Radio Mirchi, Radio City, Red FM and Big FM.200
Television broadcasting in Hyderabad began in 1974 with the launch of Doordarshan, the Government of India's public service broadcaster,201 which transmits two free-to-air terrestrial television channels and one satellite channel. Private satellite channels started in July 1992 with the launch of Star TV.202 Satellite TV channels are accessible via cable subscription, direct-broadcast satellite services or internet-based television.199203 Hyderabad's first dial-up Internet access became available in the early 1990s and was limited to software development companies.204 The first public internet access service began in 1995, with the first private sector Internet service provider (ISP) started operating in 1998.205
Schools in Hyderabad are governed by the Central Board of Secondary Education and are a mix of publicly and privately run institutions, which account for two-thirds of pupils,206 following a "10+2+3" plan. Languages of instruction include English, Hindi, Urdu207 and Telugu. Depending on the institution students are studying in, they are required to sit the Secondary School Certificate208 or the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education. After completing secondary education, students enroll in schools or junior colleges with a higher secondary facility. Admission to professional graduation colleges in Hyderabad, many of which are affiliated with either Jawaharlal Nehru Technological University (JNTU) or Osmania University, is through the Engineering Agricultural and Medical Common Entrance Test (EAM-CET).209210
There are 13 universities in Hyderabad: two private universities, two deemed universities, six state universities and three central universities. The central universities are the University of Hyderabad,211 Maulana Azad National Urdu University and the English and Foreign Languages University.212 Osmania University, established in 1918, was the first university in Hyderabad and as of 2012, is India's second most popular institution for international students.213 The Dr. B. R. Ambedkar Open University, established in 1982, is the first distance learning open university in India.214
Notable business and management schools in Hyderabad include the Indian School of Business, National Institute of Rural Development, and the Institute of Chartered Financial Analysts of India. Institutes of national importance include the Institute of Public Enterprise, the Administrative Staff College of India, and the Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel National Police Academy.215 Hyderabad has five major medical schools—Osmania Medical College, Gandhi Medical College, Nizam's Institute of Medical Sciences, Deccan College of Medical Sciences and Shadan Institute Of Medical Sciences216—and many affiliated teaching hospitals. The Government Nizamia Tibbi College is a college of Unani medicine.217
Hyderabad is also home to a number of centres specialising in particular fields such as biomedical, biotechnology and pharmaceuticals;218 the National Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research is located here.219 Many of India's leading technical and engineering schools are in Hyderabad, including the International Institute of Information Technology, Hyderabad (IIITH), Indian Institute of Technology (IIT-H), Birla Institute of Technology and Science (BITS Hyderabad) as well as agricultural engineering institutes such as the International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics and the Acharya N. G. Ranga Agricultural University. Hyderabad also has schools of fashion design including Raffles Millennium International, NIFT Hyderabad and Wigan and Leigh College. In 2013, the foundation was laid for The National Institute of Design, Hyderabad (NID-H) it will offer undergraduate and postgraduate courses from the academic year 2015.220221
The most popular sports played in Hyderabad are cricket and association football.222 At the professional level, the city has hosted national and international sports events such as the 2002 National Games of India, the 2003 Afro-Asian Games, the 2004 AP Tourism Hyderabad Open women's tennis tournament, the 2007 Military World Games, the 2009 World Badminton Championships and the 2009 IBSF World Snooker Championship. The city hosts a number of venues suitable for professional competition such as the Swarnandhra Pradesh Sports Complex for field hockey, the G.M.C. Balayogi Stadium in Gachibowli for athletics and football,223 and for cricket, the Lal Bahadur Shastri Stadium and Rajiv Gandhi International Cricket Stadium, home ground of the Hyderabad Cricket Association.224 Hyderabad has hosted many international cricket matches, including matches in the 1987 and the 1996 Cricket World Cups. The Hyderabad cricket team represents the city in the Ranji Trophy—a first-class cricket tournament among India's states and cities. Hyderabad is also home to the Indian Premier League franchise Sunrisers Hyderabad, earlier it was the Deccan Chargers, which won the 2009 Indian Premier League held in South Africa.225
During British rule, Secunderabad became a well-known sporting centre and many race courses, parade and polo grounds were built.226:18 Many elite clubs formed by the Nizams and the British such as the Secunderabad Club, the Nizam Club and the Hyderabad Race Club, which is known for its horse racing227 especially the annual Deccan derby, still exist.228 In more recent times, motorsports has become popular with the Andhra Pradesh Motor Sports Club organising popular events such as the Deccan 1/4 Mile Drag,229 TSD Rallies and 4x4 off-road rallying.230
International-level sportspeople from Hyderabad include: cricketers Ghulam Ahmed, M. L. Jaisimha, Mohammed Azharuddin, V. V. S. Laxman, Venkatapathy Raju, Shivlal Yadav, Arshad Ayub and Noel David; football players Syed Abdul Rahim, Syed Nayeemuddin and Shabbir Ali; tennis player Sania Mirza; badminton players S. M. Arif, Pullela Gopichand, Saina Nehwal, P. V. Sindhu, Jwala Gutta and Chetan Anand; hockey players Syed Mohammad Hadi and Mukesh Kumar; Rifle shooters Gagan Narang and Asher Noria and bodybuilder Mir Mohtesham Ali Khan.231
The most commonly used forms of medium distance transport in Hyderabad include government owned services such as light railways and APSRTC buses,232 as well as privately operated auto rickshaws;233 short distance transportation is provided by the ubiquitous cycle rickshaws.234 APSRTC bus services operate from the Mahatma Gandhi Bus Station in the city centre235 and ferries over 130 million passengers daily across the entire network.236:76 Hyderabad's light rail transportation system, the Multi-Modal Transport System (MMTS), is a three line suburban rail service used by over 150,000 passengers daily.237 Complementing these government services are minibus routes operated by Setwin (Society for Employment Promotion & Training in Twin Cities).238 Intercity rail services also operate from Hyderabad; the main, and largest, station is Secunderabad Railway Station, which serves as Indian Railways South Central Railway zone headquarters and a hub for APSRTC buses and MMTS light rail services connecting Secunderabad and Hyderabad. Other major railway stations in Hyderabad are Hyderabad Deccan Station, Kachiguda Railway Station and Begumpet Railway Station.239 The Hyderabad Metro, a new rapid transit system, is to be added to the existing public transport infrastructure and is scheduled to operate three lines by 2015.240
As of 2012, there are over 3.5 million vehicles operating in the city, of which 74% are two-wheelers, 15% cars and 3% three-wheelers. The remaining 8% include buses, goods vehicles and taxis.241 The large number of vehicles coupled with relatively low road coverage, roads occupy only 9.5% of the total city area,58:79 has led to widespread traffic congestion242 especially since 80% of passengers and 60% of freight are transported by road.243:3 The Inner Ring Road, the Outer Ring Road, the Hyderabad Elevated Expressway, the longest flyover in India,244 and various interchanges, overpasses and underpasses were built to ease the congestion. Maximum speed limits within the city are 50 km/h (31 mph) for two-wheelers and cars, 35 km/h (22 mph) for auto rickshaws and 40 km/h (25 mph) for light commercial vehicles and buses.245
Hyderabad sits at the junction of number of National Highways linking it to six other states: NH-7 runs 2,369 km (1,472 mi) from Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, in the north to Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, in the south; NH-9, runs 841 km (523 mi) east-west between Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh, and Pune, Maharashta; and the 280 km (174 mi) NH-202 links Hyderabad to Bhopalpatnam, Chhattisgarh. Five state highways, SH-1, SH-2, SH-4, SH-5 and SH-6, either start from, or pass through, Hyderabad.246:58
Air traffic was previously handled via Begumpet Airport, but this was replaced by Rajiv Gandhi International Airport (RGIA) (IATA: HYD, ICAO: VOHS) in 2008,247 with the capacity of handling 12 million passengers and 100,000 tonnes of cargo per annum.248 In 2011, Airports Council International, an autonomous body representing the world's airports, judged RGAI the world's best airport in the 5–15 million passenger category and the world's fifth best airport for Airport service quality.249
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- Krishnan, Usha Ramamrutham Bala (2001). Jewels of the Nizams. Department of Culture, Government of India, India Book House. ISBN 978-81-85832-15-9.
- Law, John (2010). Modern Hyderabad: Deccan (1914). Kessinger Publishing. ISBN 978-1-164-08734-2.
- Luther, Narendra (2006). Hyderabad: A Biography. Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-567535-1.
- Naidu, Ratna (1990). Old Cities, New Predicament : A Study Of Hyderabad. SAGE Publications. ISBN 978-81-7036-202-9.
- Pernau, Margrit (2000). The Passing of Patrimonialism: Politics and Political Culture in Hyderabad, 1911–1948. Manohar Publication. ISBN 978-81-7304-362-8.
- Prasad, Dharmendra (1 January 1986). Social and Cultural Geography of Hyderabad City: A Historical Perspective. Inter-India Publications. ISBN 978-81-210-0045-1.
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